Wine Life - Houston

My husband and I love Pierre Peters Brut NV Blanc De Blanc Champagne. I try to keep a few bottles in our home at any given time to cover our own spontaneous Champagne needs, we opened some on Thanksgiving and Christmas and there is more waiting for the New Year celebration. We also gave a few bottles as gifts this holiday season. One thing that I like about this sparkling wine is that there is the sense that you are getting something a bit more special for your money than you might be getting with the big brands from Champagne at the same price point. This wine was made by an independent grape grower who used at least 95% of his own estate grown grapes in the production of this wine leading to the nickname "Grower Champagne". While this is not unusual in the world of wine, it is somewhat unusual in the world of Champagne production where less than a quarter of the independent growers do so. The vineyards are located...

As originally seen in the December 2013 edition of Galveston Monthly magazine.

 As originally seen in the November 2013 edition of Galveston Monthly magazine.

Last week, I had the pleasure of meeting Paolo Cantele at Tony’s here in Houston. He was in town with Jeremy Parzen checking out our city and sharing his wine. I really enjoyed hearing Paolo talk about the natural beauty of his home in Puglia, Italy. Whether he was talking about the winery, the vineyards or the beaches; his pride in his home and in what they produce there was apparent. The family has worked to reduce the environmental impact from their winemaking on the land while also working with some Italian research groups. They are studying indigenous yeast strains, the effects of Brettanomyces on wine and on working to reduce micro-toxins. This combination of caring for the land in the vineyard while staying in front of the most current research in the winery is all part of the family’s goal to create wine that is not only a fresh, wholesome part of your dinner but a wine that can also tell the story of the place from which it came. Our dinner at Tony's w...

Master Sommelier, Matt Stamp was back in Houston for a Greek Master Class at Camerata Wine Bar for members of the Guild of Sommeliers. The focus was entirely on the white wines of Greece, their improved quality and whether Houston consumers are ready to see these wines on our local wine lists. My own experience with the white wines of Greece was limited to some overindulgence during my college years at the Houston Greek Festival, a couple of tastings of Moschofilero and Assyrtiko in some past wine classes and in a by the glass format at some local Greek restaurants. I also went to a tasting of mixed Greek whites and reds at the Midtown Spec’s over a year and a half ago where I had a bit of trouble obtaining a list of the wines we tasted, so I am uncertain as to what all I tried. Greece has over 200 grape varieties and most are not well known in the Houston market. Matt was unable to get any dry white from Patras in the Peloponnese which disappointed him as he feels that these ar...

Last week, I had the opportunity to meet Peter Fraser, the winemaker for Yangarra Estate Vineyard, and taste some of his wines with him over lunch. Yangarra Estate makes biodynamic wines produced in McLaren Vale in South Australia. Peter’s parents were conventional farmers and that’s how he initially approached his work. After attending a three day biodynamic farming seminar that really resonated with him, he was inspired to move the vineyards into an organic and biodynamic condition starting in 2008. By 2012, they were A-grade certified biodynamic by Australian Organics and as of 2013, all of their wines are certified both organic and biodynamic.     The single vineyard estate has about 250 acres of land under vine with about 170 acres for natural corridors, creeks and vegetation. Rather than tending to the grapes for a big fruit, full body style of wine, they are focusing primarily on a more elegant style of Grenache and on a more savory and complex style of Shiraz. P...

Winemaker, Enrique Tirado, from Don Melchor, Concho y Toro’s ultra-premium label, was in Houston last week conducting a vertical tasting of this iconic wine at Galleria area restaurant, Tango & Malbec. This was a real treat for the local wine trade and media as this was only a two state tour beginning in California and ending in Texas. Enrique Tirado has been the head winemaker at Don Melchor since 1997. The only time he worries about his vineyards is when he is not there to handle any issue that could arise, that is the worst part about traveling for him. He can deal with anything else. He likes to watch the daily evolution that is always happening in the vineyard. Hearing this reminded me of how parents talk when they are traveling and I like that in a winemaker. I like to know that kind of care and attention go into each vintage. The vineyard area is in Puente Alto which is located in Chile’s Maipo Valley at the foot of the Andes Mountains. The vineyard is subdivided into...

As originally seen in the October 2013 Edition of Galveston Monthly    

I went to the Kobrand Tour d' Italia tasting in Austin last week where they were featuring their Italian wine portfolio. I had a limited amount of time that I was able to spend there but I did enjoy tasting the new vintages and chatting with some of Italy's well-known wine producers. I started my tasting with Roberto Pighin and his selection of three whites from northeast Italy: the 2011 Pighin Pinot Grigio-Friuli Grave  which was light and easy-drinking with fresh pear aromas, the 2012 Pighin Pinot Grigio- Collio with melon flavors and a creamier texture due to some lees aging and the 2012 Pighin Sauvignon Blanc- Friuli Grave  which was crisp with grassy notes and a mineral laced finish. My next stop was at the Michele Chiarlo table where Alberto Chiarlo was pouring some Piemontese classics. I really enjoyed both of the whites; the fresh and citrusy 2012 Gavi Le Marne and the smooth, floral 2011 Le Madri, Roero Arneis . I was pleased to...

As originally seen in the September 2013 Health Edition of Galveston Monthly magazine      

A couple of rainy evenings led to all indoor cooking and some opened bottles of Burgundy. Neither of these bottles come from "outstanding" vintages so I was interested to see how each would taste. 2011 Seguinot-Bordet Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 100% Chardonnay wine, approximately $33 at Spec's. Pronounced honeysuckle floral aromas with lemon and a hint of fresh asparagus with similar flavors. Dry, medium+ body and acidity with a long mineral-laced citrus finish. I really enjoyed it; it made me think about chalky minerality, electric acidity and everything that you hope your Chablis will be. I served it with jumbo lump crab cakes. 2007 Daniel Bocquenet Vosne-Romanee Villages 100% Pinot Noir wine, approximately $63 at Spec's. My first thought on sniffing this glass was "fully developed". Aromas of leather, earth and patchouli. Dried apricot fruit flavor with a lightly spiced finish. Dry, medium+ body, tannins, acidity and length. I found ...

  Life has not been lived entirely through Rosé colored wine glasses this summer. I have also been pouring a variety of reasonably priced lighter Italian white wines as well. In addition to being fairly wallet sensitive and easy to find, they are refreshing and food friendly, making each of these perfect for summer sipping. 2011 Bolla Soave Classico 883 Selection I received this as a media sample but I would purchase it again. It is easy to find, it is affordable at under $10 and it is a versatile wine to keep on hand. Floral aromas of honeysuckle with lemongrass and a fresh citrus flavor. Dry, light to medium body, medium+ acidity and a mineral laced finish. I served this as a poolside aperitif before a casual early weekend supper with my brother's family where it was well received.   2009 Tommasi il grigio Ramato Pinot Grigio   This wine was purchased for approximately $15 at Spec's. While this wine ...

My summer of Rosé continued after my deadline for my Galveston Monthly feature on Rosé wine had passed. I wanted to recommend a few more refreshing Rosés for you to try as our hot summer wears on. 2 012 Tavel "Les Eglantiers" - Tavel is an appellation in France's Southern Rhone Valley that produces Rosé exclusively. This is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. It has pronounced aromas of red cherry and citrus blossom with a tart berry and bit of peach flavor. Dry, medium+ body, medium acidity with a plush feel and a long mineral laced finish. An elegant Rosé at approximately $15 at Spec's. 2011 and 2012 La Vieille Ferme from the Ventoux appellation in France's Rhone Valley is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. I always try to buy the freshest vintage available but I couldn't resist opening these up together to see how they compared. Very similar across the board with the 2012 seemingly "brighter" over all. Floral aromas, fresh che...

As originally seen in the August 2013 edition of Galveston Monthly  magazine.    

Bodega Ruca Malen ’s wine maker, Pablo Cuneo and Chef Lucas Bustos, who oversees the restaurant at the winery, were in Houston earlier this month for the launch of the Bodega Ruca Malen wines in Texas. They are now available in Central Markets across the state. Central Market patrons had the opportunity to attend cooking demonstrations of specially prepared paired tastings by the winery’s chef while learning about the wines from the winemaker himself at tasting events that started in Houston and continued through San Antonio, Austin and Dallas. I had the opportunity to sit down for lunch and a tasting of their wines at America’s in River Oaks before their Houston Central Market event began. We started with the 2012 Yauquen Torrontes from Salta, an area which is well-known for producing some of Argentina’s best Torrontes due to the high elevation of the vineyard area and the high UV levels they receive promoting optimal ripening. This wine was crisp and dry, it did not have that ...

A friend who is associated with Cantele sent me a media sample of a few of their wines. They are produced in Puglia, often known as the heel of Italy's boot, from local grapes. 2011 Cantele Negroamaro Rosato - Aromas of cherry syrup with floral notes. Dry with a medium body, medium alcohol and medium acidity with a fresh cherry flavor. It worked well with our dinner of soft chicken tacos with tomatillo salsa. Whole Foods has it for $13.99. 2010 Cantele Primitivo - Aromas of black plum, dark cherry and licorice. Dry with a medium body, medium alcohol, medium tannins and medium acidity with flavors to match the aromas and a slightly spicy, long finish. Very smooth and drinkable. I served it with barbequed and smoked pulled pork sandwiches and it was delicious. Available at Spec's for about $15. 2009 Cantele Salice Salentino Riserva - Ripe blackberry and black cherry aromas. Dry with a medium body, medium alcohol, medium tannins and m...

From the July 2013 edition of Galveston Monthly magazine on page 60-62     

Master Sommelier Matt Stamp was back in town to teach a Ribera del Duero Masterclass for the Guild of Sommeliers at Pappas Bros Steakhouse. Essentially, I went in knowing some key facts about this region. I knew that it was located in the Duero Valley in Castille-Leon in Spain. I knew they only produced Red and Rosado wine primarily from Tempranillo. I knew Vega Sicilia was its most important winery having been in operation since the 19 th century and I knew that Vega Sicilia had used Bordeaux grapes in their wines in the past. I knew the vineyards were at high elevations on the meseta where they received high levels of sunlight and I knew they enjoyed a wide diurnal range. I knew the Tempranillo from this area was darker colored and more powerful with pronounced aromas and flavors of dark fruit, mainly plum and blackberry, that it was  fairly tannic and could be a bit astringent. Matt gave a good review of all of these things but he also went far more in depth wi...